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Friday, 16 July 2010

ImageBerawal dari coba-coba, ternyata siapa sangka adonan pastry menjadi sangat terkenal dan disukai hingga seluruh penjuru dunia. Membicarakan sejarah pastry seperti tak berujung. Banyak yang mengklaim bahwa pastry sudah ada sejak masyarakat pada kebudayaan tersebut ada


Salah satunya adalah pada budaya Mesir, mereka mengolah tepung dan pasta air untuk membungkus daging yang dimasak agar dapat menyerap cairan. Pastry lalu berkembang di Timur Tengah dan dibawa ke Eropa oleh umat Islam di abad ke-7. Pada abad pertengahan, mulai dikenal puding dan pie. Baru setelah memasuki abad ke-17, mulai berkembang puff pastry dan flaky pastry.

Puff Pastry awalnya  ditemukan oleh pastrycook magang asal Perancis bernama Claudius Gele pada tahun 1645. Pada akhir masa magangnya, Claudius ingin membuatkan seloyang roti lezat buatannya untuk ayahnya yang sedang sakit. Dengan mempergunakan panduan diet sang ayah yang terdiri dari air, tepung dan butter, Claudius mengolah adonan, melipat dan memasukkan butter ke dalam adonan. Ia lakukan berulang-ulang hingga mencapai sepuluh kali lipatan, hingga akhirnya ia masukkan adonan tersebut ke dalam loyang.

                Tak disangka, pengolahan adonan tersebut menghasilkan bentuk yang di luar dugaan. Berkat penemuan tak disengaja tersebut, Claudius bisa memperoleh pekerjaan di kota Paris, hingga akhirnya ia dapat menyempurnakan penemuannya. Walau akhirnya hasil karya Claudius diklaim oleh Mosca bersaudara, namun Claudius yang meninggal pada tahun 1682 tetap dikenang sebagai penemu pastry.


Seni Pastry

                Pastry merupakan perpaduan dari penggunaan tepung terigu, ragi, garam, air, lemak dan telur. Dari adonan ini, nantinya akan bisa dikreasikan menjadi tiga kategori, yaitu plain pastry dough (berupa adonan shortcrust atau dikenal dengan pie), layered pastry (terdiri dari croissant, danish dan puff pastry) dan choux paste (berbagai jenis kue sus).

Pastry berbeda dengan roti, karena dalam pastry (terutama pada adonan layered pastry) mengandung kadar lemak yang lebih tinggi dibandingan dengan roti. Tekstur yang diharapkan pada sepotong pastry berupa kerenyahan di luar dan lembut di di bagian dalam. Kuncinya pada pengadukan adonan  jangan sampai kalis. Kalau terlalu kalis bukan pastry yang berlapis-lapis, melainkan menjadi adonan roti. Kunci sukses adonan pastry adalah antara adonan terigu dan lemak harus sama-sama dingin.  Ruangan yang dipergunakan untuk melipat adonan juga harus dingin. Adonan juga harus sering diistirahatkan. Jika adonan menghangat atau tidak dingin, tekstur croissant akan seperti roti. Melakukan roll sebaiknya jangan sekuat tenaga,, secukupnya saja, jika di-roll sekuat mungkin lipatan lemak bisa pecah yang mengakibatkan tekstur pastry menjadi tidak berlapis-lapis.

Yang paling sederhana dari  proses pastry adalah adonan shortcrust atau yang lebih dikenal sebagai adonan pie. Hanya diperlukan tepung terigu, mentega dan air. Cukup bentuk adonan hingga berbutir, simpan di tempat dingin, maka adonan siap dipergunakan. Sebaiknya jangan mengaduk adonan dengan tangan, tapi mempergunakan dua buah pisau.  

Begitu pula dengan choux paste yang tak lain adalah adonan sus. Berbeda dengan

Adonan pastry lainnya, dalam membuat sus, Anda tinggal melelehkan mentega dan air, memasukkan tepung terigu. Tetapi sebaiknya tunggu sampai adonan agak dingin, baru masukkan telur satu persatu.




                Penting sekali untuk memperhatikan bahan-bahan yang akan dipergunakan agar memperoleh hasil yang sempurna untuk pastry yang akan kita ciptakan. Bahan yang utama adalah tepung terigu. Pilihlah tepung terigu protein sedang atau biasa disebut pastry fluor (kira-kira mengandung sebanyak 10-12%). Untuk mengembangkan adonan, memudahkan pembentukan gluten dan memberikan aroma, untuk beberapa jenis pastry mempergunakan ragi/ yeast. Ragi yang biasa dipergunakan adalah ragi instan (instant yeast), karena bersifat dadak/ instan, dan dapat dicampur langsung dengan tepung, juga lebih mudah dalam penanganannya.
                Selain memerlukan tepung terigu dan ragi, masih diperlukan
air yang berfungsi untuk melarutkan bahan-bahan kering seperti tepung dan ragi. Air juga membantu pembentukkan gluten dan mengontrol suhu fermentasi. Dalam adonan pastry, biasanya juga dibubuhkan garam yang dipergunakan untuk memberi rasa, memperkuat pembentukkan gluten, membangkitkan rasa dan membantu mengontrol fermentasi. Tak lupa diperlukan penambahan telur yang berguna untuk menambahkan rasa gurih dan nutrisi. Sekaligus membentuk struktur pada pembuatan adonan sus.

                Peranan lemak dalam pembentukkan adonan pastry juga sangat penting. Jenis-jenis lemak juga beragam, antara lain :

-          Butter/ Mentega, yang terbuat dari lemak susu dan cairan susu.

-          Margarine, yang terdiri dari lemak hewani/ nabati. Biasanya ditambahkan air, emulsi, aroma, pewarna makanan dan garam. Ini menjadikan margarine menjadi lebih beraroma.

-          Shortening, terbuat dari lemak hewani/ lemak nabati (tanpa penambahan air) sampai 100%

-          BOS (Butter Oil Subtitute), yang terbuat dari lemak hewani/nabati, namun diberikan pewarna sekaligus aroma.

-          Pastry Butter/ Margarine, ini merupakan butter/ margarine yang khusus dipergunakan sebagai lemak lipat pada pembuatan pastry, misalnya: croissant, danish pastry dan puff pastry. Selain penambahan Pastry Butter, bisa dipergunakan juga Pastry Shortening dikenal juga dengan korsvet.  



Kreasi Pastry


                Jika sudah menguasai dasar-dasar membuat aneka pastry, Anda bisa membuat bentuk-bentuk yang menarik dan berbeda. Jangan ragu untuk membuat kreasi yang berbeda. Tak hanya bentuk, namun juga variasi dari isi dari pastry yang Anda ciptakan. Seperti Ryan Zimmer, Pastry Chef di Marco Polo Hotel-Hong Kong, “Banyak bahan yang bisa diolah dari sekitar Anda. Dengan sedikit kreatif, Anda bisa menciptakan rasa baru,” tegasnya. Slamet Supriyanto, Pastry Chef dari The Acacia Jakarta juga sependapat dengan Ryan Zimmer, “Saat orang menilai tampilan sebuah produk pastry biasanya sudah memiliki ekspektasi rasa, namun saat dia mendapat kejutan dengan sensasi baru karena ada bahan yang tak biasa, ini akan jadi kejutan tak terlupakan.”

                Haryanto Makmoer,  Technical Service Manager PT. Sinar Meadow International Indonesia juga sependapat bahwa dalam mengkreasikan berbagai macam pastry harus berani bereksperimen. “Pie bisa diisi macam-macam. Salah satu kreasi saya mengombinasikan pie dengan filling kelapa muda, untuk pie yang savoury saya mencoba berkreasi dengan  Spaghetti Pie,” jelas Haryanto. Menurutnya, perkembangan pastry sendiri di Indonesia sudah sangat maju. Ia meramalkan, bahwa pie dan pia masih akan menjadi primadona. “Asalkan berani berkreasi dan taste-nya cocok dengan selera lokal, pasti bisa merebut hati para pelanggan,” ungkapnya.

Pastry&Bakery@Novi Amaliyah/ Rio Chan/ Rika Eridani. Foto-foto : Halasan Sihombing.




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